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"Oh but the rose petals are a loud ally. Hollering at me everyday with bright pink sunny flowers summoning from every green patch." 

 Introduction to Making Perfume  It was Coco Chanel who said "A woman who doesn't wear perfume has no future."   I would like to believe that is not true, but as with anything Coco Chanel, the woman knew what she was doing.  Looking back, many of my best memories were connected to a perfume, a scent, a spirit.  My attraction to Chanel in general is with #22.  My grown kids still have my down pillows that smell of #22, and in their mind, me.  When that perfume became discontinued in 2006 I embarked on recreating that scent which ended up a total immersion over the years in "how to make perfume" in general.  It was fun, fascinating, and intellectual.  I did find top fragrance houses do not "talk."  If they describe a perfume to their marketing department, it is often subjective information and not on point to the true profile. I had to really dig, for years, and primarily, I had to isolate what few raw material were available back in 1922 when that perfume was created.   I finally perfected it in late 2007.  I was able to even swap a few notes in my #22 and re-create #5 for a friend.  I believe you can make a perfume that you just love, can make over and over again - and do not have to pay $50  or $200 an ounce for.  You should start by discovering the notes that you love.  Presently I love Gucci anything, as well as Chanel.

"If you take inventory of your favorite perfumes you will find you are attracted to the same notes in all of them." ~Deborah Dolen

If you are just getting started at making perfume, I created a chart, below, as a "basis."  I took a list I created a few years ago, of the Top 300 Designer Perfume Blends and created the chart based on that data.  Perfume Crafting by Deborah Dolen is a great article to begin with.   Fragrance Wheel.  Basically if you are going to start a perfume making kit as a hobby - you would want the notes below, in maybe sizes to the most predominate.  How to Make Perfume by Deborah Dolen. has a great database for perfume construction and I will blogging on there more often.

Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen 

Most Popular Top Notes

Most Popular Heart Notes

Most Popular Base Notes


1.  Bergamot

2.  Peach

3.  Mandarin Orange

4.  Greens

5.  Aldehydes

6.  Lemon

7.  Coriander

8.  Black Currant

9.  Galbanum

10. Black Violet Leaves

11. Pepper

12. Grapefruit

13. Rosewood

14. Pineapple

15. Plum

16. Raspberry

17. Marigold

18. Sage

19. Tangerine

20. Apricot

21. Cardamom

22. Mango

23. Lime

24. Passion fruit

25. Pear

26. Petigrain

27. Strawberries

28. Water Lilly

29. Coconut

30. Ginger

31. Cassis


  1. 1.  Rose

  2. 2.  Jasmine

  3. 3.  Ylang Ylang

  4. 4.  Lilly of the Valley

  5. 5.  Tuberose

  6. 6.  Hyacinth

  7. 7.  Orange Blossom -

  8. 8.  Neroli

  9. 9.  Carnation

  10. 10. Iris

  11. 11. Orris

  12. 12. Narcissus

  13. 13. Violet

  14. 14. Gardenia

  15. 15. Geranium

  16. 16. Honeysuckle

  17. 17. Lilac

  18. 18. Orchid

  19. 19. Red Currant

  20. 20. Heliotrope

  21. 21. Wisteria



  1. 1.  Sandalwood

  2. 2.  Musk

  3. 3.  Amber

  4. 4.  Vanilla

  5. 5.  Oak moss

  6. 6.  Patchouli

  7. 7.  Vetivert

  8. 8.  Civet

  9. 9.  Cedar wood

  10. 10. Benzoin

  11. 11. Incense

  12. 12. Tonka Bean

  13. 13. Honey

  14. 14. Moss

  15. 15. Clove

  16. 16. Spices - Anise

  17. 17. Styrax

  18. 18. Opoponax

  19. 19.  Bay Rum

  20. 20.  Leather










Perfume Notes Propensity Chart

© Deborah Dolen 2011


Designer Perfume Notes Index

Deborah Dolen on Perfume Crafting with Exotic Oils Recipes and Formula's

Deborah Dolen on How to Make Perfume

Introduction to Making Perfume and Most Important 66 notes to Have: Propensity Chart by Deborah Dolen

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About Author Deborah Dolen return to home page

Deborah Dolen

Deborah Dolen is the Editor in Chief for Mabel White DIY and author of over 25 DIY books, 1,000 articles and several TV "how to" Films.  Deborah Dolen is also an environmental writer and has her own content syndication.  Deborah Dolen was widowed when she was on her 30's and went on to raise three great daughters in FL up against many obstacles.  This is the time period she generated her most fascinating DIY books.

Deborah Dolen was born in a Catholic Infant Home on Niagara Falls, the U.S. side.  It was known as Our Lady of Victory.  Deborah grew up in the Adirondack mountains in Upstate New York although moved around a lot and always in transition.  Her teenage years were more stable and thoroughbred race horses were her passion. She skipped school a lot in the 70's to walk and groom the likes of Man o' War and Secretariat.  When she was not grooming horses in Saratoga she was hitting the ski slopes of Killington in Vermont, Pikes Peak, or Gore Mountain to name a few.  To this day K-2's are her favorite skis and Head are her favorite bindings.

In her 20's  Deborah Dolen built some 520 legal clinics for the poor from the ground up and ran for 17 years.  People simply needed affordable legal access and that still has not changed much.  Having grown up poor and discriminated against-even disallowed to play with certain toys...Deborah had never been a quiet type and bucked many regimes as an adult.  In the 80's she felt almost all legal fees were oppressive to the majority for no reason and feels they still are.  Her organization helped well over 100,000 people.  Many of those were able to teach other people in turn.  As with health care, Canada does not charge its citizens for most common family law issues and Deborah feels family issues, including financial ones, should not be a feeding frenzy in the states as it still certainly is. No one should profit of the demise of another person.

Fast forward a few decades and Deborah Dolen is very much into flying and canine rescue as well as DIY projects she writes about and films from her Florida home.  Although her passions have always been with horse racing she is very into auto racing, focus and performance in Daytona and Charlotte, NC.  Deborah presently writes about environmental topics beyond DIY subjects that will always fascinate her.  Her dog Ringo, adopted from Katrina, is usually by her side

You can join Deborah Dolen her on twitter facebook MySpace or check out her home page for RSS syndication.    See demos of her work on YouTube here and Amazon here.  Mabel White

Read about Ringo a dog flown in from Katrina.  Official Bio of his owner and short Bio RSS Syndicated Feeds on the environment.  How Twitter is best used.  Deborah Dolen Books on Amazon.   Review of her books on Open Library,  Paperback Swap, Good Reads and ReviewScout.  You can also read Google Profile.    Deborah Dolen on MySpace Facebook, and Flickr.  This is our favorite blogspot.   See Deborah Dolen on YouTube and her last book written London Apothecary and book