Introduction to Making Perfume

"Oh but the rose petals are a loud ally. Hollering at me everyday with bright pink sunny flowers summoning from every green patch."



Testing location

It was Coco Chanel who said "A woman who doesn't wear perfume has no future." I would like to believe that is not true, but as with anything Coco Chanel, the woman knew what she was doing. Looking back, many of my best memories were connected to a perfume, a scent, a spirit. My attraction to Chanel in general is with #22. My grown kids still have my down pillows that smell of #22, and in their mind, me. When that perfume became discontinued in 2006 I embarked on recreating that scent which ended up a total immersion over the years in "how to make perfume" in general. It was fun, fascinating, and intellectual. I did find top fragrance houses do not "talk." If they describe a perfume to their marketing department, it is often subjective information and not on point to the true profile. I had to really dig, for years, and primarily, I had to isolate what few raw material were available back in 1922 when that perfume was created. I finally perfected it in late 2007. I was able to even swap a few notes in my #22 and re-create #5 for a friend. I believe you can make a perfume that you just love, can make over and over again - and do not have to pay $50 or $200 an ounce for. You should start by discovering the notes that you love. Presently I love Gucci anything, as well as Chanel.


Image and Photography by Deborah Dolen

"If you take inventory of your favorite perfumes you will find you are attracted to the same notes in all of them." ~Deborah Dolen

If you are just getting started at making perfume, I created a chart, below, as a "basis." I took a list I created a few years ago, of the Top 300 Designer Perfume Blends and created the chart based on that data. Perfume Crafting by Deborah Dolen is a great article to begin with. Fragrance Wheel. Basically if you are going to start a perfume making kit as a hobby - you would want the notes below, in maybe sizes to the most predominate. How to Make Perfume by Deborah Dolen. BaseNotes.net has a great database for perfume construction and I will blogging on there more often.

Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen
Most Popular Top Notes Most Popular Heart Notes Most Popular Base Notes
Bergamot Rose Sandalwood
Peach Jasmine Musk
Mandarin Orange Ylang Ylang Amber
Greens Lilly of the Valley Vanilla
Aldehydes Tuberose Oak moss
Lemon Hyacinth Patchouli
Coriander Orange Blossom Vetivert
Black Currant Neroli Civet
Galbanum Carnation Cedar wood
Violet Iris Benzoin
Pepper Orris Incense
Grapefruit Narcissus Tonka Bean
Rosewood Violet Honey
Pineapple Gardenia Moss
Plum Geranium Clove
Raspberry Honeysuckle Spices - Anise
Marigold Lilac Styrax
Sage Orchid Opoponax
Tangerine Red Currant Bay Rum
Apricot Heliotrope Leather
Designer Perfume Notes Index
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Deborah Dolen on Perfume Crafting with Exotic Oils Recipes and Formula's
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Deborah Dolen on How to Make Perfume
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Introduction to Making Perfume and Most Important 66 notes to Have: Propensity Chart
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